Adam Ondra a 23 year old Czech climber is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he succeeded to win both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He has also a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010.
This time, on November 21st he was on top of the rock. “Hard to find the words to describe how I feel. We made it up to the Wino Tower and no more hard pitches guard my way to the top. I could not have asked for a better day” he said.
“The Dawn Wall, which sits looker’s right of the Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite, consists of seven pitches of 5.14, 12 pitches of 5.13, eight pitches of 5.12, four pitches of 5.11, and one pitch of 5.10.
Great progress on pitch 14, but unfortunately no send. Took a lot of skin to finally figure out the mystery (3rd and last boulder of the pitch), but I finally have a satisfying beta at least. On my last go, with no skin and really tired, I slipped on the first boulder, but continued straight away to the anchor. I am quite confident that next time it should work out. And next time I think it will be on the push. Photo @pavelblazek (check out his insights from the wall on his instagram too, highly recommended) #Montura @blackdiamond @mytendon @lasportivagram #elcapitan #Dawnwall #yosemite #heinzzak
Ondra, who is being supported by fellow Czech climber Pavel Blazek, and his father, began sussing out the climb on October 17—for first Yosemite big wall. They fixed ropes as they went to be able to work the crux pitches at a later time, by a mix of free- and aid-climbing techniques and to be able to move up and down the wall more easily. In the weeks following, Ondra and Blazek would spend two to three days on the wall, sleeping in a portaledge, says on Rock and Ice the climber’s magazine.